Name of Object:

Jacket

Location:

Stockholm, Sweden

Holding Museum:

Museum of Mediterranean and Near Eastern Antiquities (Medelhavsmuseet)

About Museum of Mediterranean and Near Eastern Antiquities (Medelhavsmuseet), Stockholm

Date of Object:

Hegira 13th century / AD 19th century

Museum Inventory Number:

NM 0142/1899

Material(s) / Technique(s):

Velvet, printed cotton, gold metal thread; needlework, embroidery.

Dimensions:

Width 150 cm

Period / Dynasty:

Ottoman

Provenance:

Turkey, possibly Istanbul or Bursa.

Description:

The short jacket with long sleeves is made of red velvet and displays rich decoration. Silver braid covers the seams and border the neckline, the cuffs and all other edges. In addition, the borders are highlighted by a broad strip of patterned fabric. Parts of the shoulders and the sleeves are embroidered. The braid on the shoulders is flanked by tendrils. The upper parts of the sleeves show stylised scrollwork from which, in contrast, stylised sprays of flowers and leaves emerge. The jacket is closed by a row of 16 buttons. Inside, the jacket is lined with printed cotton showing a pattern of strips.

Short jacket with long sleeves made of red velvet, lined with printed cotton. It is richly embroidered with scrollwork, sprays of flowers and leaves.

How date and origin were established:

Metal thread embroidery was the preferred technique for Ottoman urban pieces of the 13th / 19th century.

How Object was obtained:

Purchased from the collection of F. R. Martin in 1898.

How provenance was established:

High-quality Ottoman metal-thread embroideries are products of the professional workshops of Istanbul and Bursa.

Selected bibliography:

Johnstone, P., Turkish Embroidery, Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 1985.
Taylor, R., Ottoman Embroidery, London, 1993.
Ther, U., Floral Messages: From Ottoman Court Embroideries to Anatolian Trousseau Chests, Bremen, 1993.
Türkische Kunst und Kultur aus Osmanischer Zeit, Museum für Kunsthandwerk Frankfurt, Exhibition catalogue, Vol. 2, Recklinghausen, 1985.

Citation of this web page:

Friederike Voigt "Jacket" in Discover Islamic Art, Museum With No Frontiers, 2023. https://islamicart.museumwnf.org/database_item.php?id=object;ISL;se;Mus01;22;en

Prepared by: Friederike VoigtFriederike Voigt

Friederike Voigt has an MA in Iranian studies, history of art and social science and is currently working on her doctoral thesis on wall tiles in architectural decoration of Qajar Iran. Since 2004 she has been a project-related curator at the Museum for Mediterranean and Near Eastern Antiquities in Stockholm for Museum With No Frontiers. She studied at Humboldt University in Berlin, at the University of Tehran and archaeology at the University of Halle-Wittenberg. She taught Persian language at several universities in Germany. She was an assistant curator at the Department of Near and Middle Eastern Cultures at the Museum of Ethnology, State Museums of Berlin. Her main fields of interest are the material culture of Iran, especially of the Qajar period, and contemporary Iranian art.
Copyedited by: Monica Allen

MWNF Working Number: SE 24